STA Travel (0171-361 6262) has a fare of pounds 487 on Emirates via Dubai. You can obtain a visa more quickly in Hong Kong if you are travelling via the territory, and pay only HK$100 (about pounds 8).There have been some reports that the documents of British visitors are being checked especially assiduously by Chinese officials because of the political differences over Hong Kong.What about flights to Hong Kong?Air fares are generally lower to Hong Kong than direct to China. There are endless stopover possibilities, but these can add substantially to the cost.How tangled is the red tape?British passport holders need a Chinese visa, which is most easily obtained through the China Travel Service, 7 Upper St Martin’s Lane WC2H 9DL (0171- 836 9911); this agency charges pounds 10 on top of the normal pounds 25 fee Allow a week for processing. Most travellers make the week-long journey only in one direction, and fly the other. A basic round trip comprising a flight from London to Moscow, train to Peking and onwards to Hong Kong, with a flight back to London, would cost around pounds 750 through companies such as Bridge the World (0171-911 0900), Regent Holidays (0117 921 1711) and the Russia Experience (0181-566 8846).

For example, Campus Travel (0171- 730 8111) has a fare of pounds 493, including tax, on Air France from London, Birmingham, Edinburgh or Manchester via Paris.How about by rail?Regular trains operate between Moscow and Peking, with connections from western Europe and to Hong Kong. Head for a vendor called Ms Bai at stalls 113 and 123, provider of freshwater pearls and semi-precious jewellery to Mrs Thatcher (complete with framed photograph).Chaowai Antiques Market: Near the north-west corner of Ritan Park, these two warehouses offer a selection of Chinese knick-knacks, and a few real antiques. Never mind if it is a modern copy or an outright fake, just bargain very hard. (True antiques cannot be exported from China without the necessary documentation.)How to get thereBritish Airways and Air China fly non-stop twice a week between London Heathrow and Peking, but the lowest fares are available from discount agents for travel on other airlines. The gardens are very peaceful, and the palace gives some idea of what life was like for the well-connected before 1949.The Pearl Market: Situated on the third floor of the Hong Qiao indoor market, on the north-east corner of the Temple of Heaven. You can stock up on tacky Mao memorabilia by the exit.Prince Gong’s Palace: An unusually quiet retreat north of the Forbidden City. It will probably taste awful, but the look on everyone’s faces will be worth every unidentifiable mouthful.Six of the best sights in PekingThe Great Wall: Not to be missed.

Those with sturdy legs and knees should head for the wall at Simatai, while anyone who might need a cable- car ascent is best off at Mutianyu.The Summer Palace: On the north-west side of Peking, the gardens are beautiful in summer and winter. On the return journey into the city, try to stop off at some of the traditional villages near the old city moat.Mao’s Mausoleum: He looks like wax, and from time to time there are reports that he is leaking, but the Chairman’s body stays where it is because it would be far too politically sensitive to move him. The Chinese, for all their nationalistic fervour, are at their most tolerant in situations involving food. Pick any brightly lit restaurant, order a round of Peking draught beers (Beijing jia pi), and point to a few key words in the Chinese phrase book. Throughout the early morning, local Pekingers turn up to take their daily exercises. In my local, Ritan Park, old women exercise their brains (they say) by walking backwards, Chinese of all ages practice shadow boxing and other martial arts, and one group of middle-aged women meet for disco keep fit.This is, of course, not the modern Peking hurtling down the expressway of economic reform.